My language skills are bad. They are nearly non-existent. Actually, my language skills are so infinitesimally small, they should be considered non-existent. I took a couple years of Latin and also Spanish which I mandatory continued at my university for one more year. I could read, write, but my listening and speaking skills were awful;. So, of all the non-English speaking countries I could have gone, I fortunately arrived in Portugal.
There are many English speakers here in Portugal. The students are willing to practice and receive instruction in mostly English. American movies and television shows also feature Portuguese subtitles instead of dubbing. If any translation needed to occur during swing dance classes, Abeth would translate. I quickly learned to speak slowly and enunciate better (though I could still slow down), demonstrate better, listen for certain Portuguese dance related words, and become more observant.
However, all this English meant I was spoiled. A spoiled Kenny could and did lead to a lazy Kenny. Though I'm perfectly content sitting through a dinner or a party with Portuguese language swirling about, I'm missing out on so much. My typical defense is to A. Read a book. Anyone that has attended a party with me knows this is typical. B. Get lost in my own thoughts. C. Find someone willing to speak English with me. D. Hope someone draws me into conversation.
The new defense? Just learn the language. This is my third trip to Portugal and I enjoy it here. The city is really compact, so it's easy to navigate via walking or metro. The winding streets aren't the most pleasant, but you eventually get used to them. Then there are areas like Aliados (pictured above) that open up nicely. You should have seen this area after FC Porto won the championship.
Have I mentioned they have beaches? And people dance or do aerials on them?
However, I'm digressing off subject. This is about language and discovering Peneda-Gerês National Park. The above image features my weekend language instructors, Nuno and Helena. As you can see, they take themselves very seriously, demanding that I stay focused as they are. The language lesson made the drive seem very short. I asked for key phrases, Helena provided. Nuno picked apart polite forms, Helena picked apart my handwriting, and they both picked apart my pronunciation. I need work, but it was fun, they were patient, and my notebook has translation information along with conjugated verb forms.
This was the payoff. Welcome to Gerês, home to rocky mountains, hot springs, waterfalls, livestock, and more. Our first destination was a crystal clear pool of water that alternated between warm and cold depending on your location.
Fortunately our path was marked by obvious cairns. Sometimes, as Daniel discovered, there were too many cairns.
Notice the super clear water as you peer through a rock opening. This was the ideal way to enjoy an afternoon lunch. We swam, ate and soaked up some sun.
Afterward, we decided to go off course and discover a new path. Along the way, we discovered three horses grazing which led to me planking in one of the few manure free zones.
There were some moments when we had to evaluate our next move. However, this led to new discoveries such as more crystal clear pools and small waterfalls.
Though a fun adventure, climbing back out resulted in my right arm looking like it lost a fight with a fierce kitten. Following this river was not looking like a good idea. There were too many steep drops where we would have to take another route, so we searched for higher ground.
This direction led to finding scattered quartz along with this uniquely uniform straight quartz line. Notice how far it extends.
Finally, we discovered a two tier waterfall with a segmented pool. The pool was divided into three portions by two rocks that extended end to end about 20-30 centimeters below the water's surface.
You'll see what I'm referencing if you follow Nuno's sight line. The water was cold, but well worth the exposure. There was river god posing, planking, Portugal's planking version (not sure what to call it), and more.
It was a successful hike overall. We capped it off by discovering castanhas (chestnuts) and riding on the back of tall Nuno's van. We spent the rest of the weekend camping, laying in the sun and kayaking. Here are some more pictures.
Some Portuguese wildlife for you. There were grazing cows and horses and many elusive lizards also.
I arrived in Lisbon on Friday, September 2 and Porto Saturday, September 3. Here are some short stories.
First, I've been asked by a couple Portuguese if America has barbers. Yes, regardless of my shaggy appearance, there are barbers where I live.
Second, when I arrived Sunday for the beach dance, two dancers (Carla and Toni) started waving in my direction when I was still quite far away. Apparently, my 5 liter water jug carrying profile is quite recognizable.
Third, Carla and Toni were trying the lindy flip at the beach dance. She took a bad back twisting spill. If any old Skidoo reads this, think back to Jamie Cameron learning the lindy flip. It was very similar. 10 minutes later they are trying the aerial again because as Carla reminds me "you must try again soon after or you'll be afraid."
Fourth, Papajj Ek (rhymes with Star Trek), comes over to me Saturday night exclaiming about how wonderful blues dancing is and how he found a follower who can do multiple pirouette turns. Him and his wife, Martuska, will soon start practicing blues dancing.
If you desire fine or adventurous Porto dining, get to know O Porto Cool. It's an online blog dedicated to "cool" dining, fashion, art, and more. And first on the list is Eatin' Cool. This dedicated blog led me to Bugo Art Burger. O Porto Cool featured tempting pictures and a Facebook link. Further research demonstrated affordable prices (featured restaurants tend to be expensive) and a killer menu.
Bugo is located on Rua De Miguel Bombarda near the Palacio Cristal. It is walking distance from the Carolina Michaelis metro station. Tucked in this neighborhood, it attracts businessmen, couples, and groups of friends. They offer lunch and dinner menus.
My first visit, one month ago, started with their house red wine. Like most Portugal wine, it's affordable and outstanding. This picture was taken at their front bar. They have 4 or 5 seats here. You're welcome to dine there or wait for your table.
As I waited for a friend, I casually took pictures. You can see the sangria in the upper left hand corner (to be sampled later). After the bar, the room is a chunky L shape with a strip of tables to the right (pictured), and a 6 person nook to the left. The kitchen is in the back and you can see a cook reflected in the mirror. Note: I've been impressed with the amount of upscale restaurants with open kitchens.
Still waiting, I decided to sample an appetizer. Welcome the tomato confit, goat cheese, and basil bruschetta. The sliced roll was a glorious textured orb of tasty colorful goodness.
I paused my devouring for another tempting image.
Settled into the nook with my dining companion, I received my main entree, The Oriental Assortment. There were three miniburger varieties - grass fed cow, azores tuna, and free range chicken with three oriental sauces (mayowasabi, teriyaki, and sweet and sour). It was served with Asian noodles and sauteed vegetables. The burgers were well cooked, the sauces great fun to pair, and the noodles an unlikely but successful match.
Chowing down, practicing my chopstick eat-fu.
If one desires the full restaurant experience, dessert should not be skipped. This is the fruit crumble with ginger and cinnamon ice cream.
This is the port wine pannacotta with berries jam. The fruit crumble won the dessert battle. Presentation was a draw. We both decided the pannacotta was too sweet, though I still finished it. The crumble with its fruity interior, crusted exterior, topped with cinnamon ice cream won us over.
And the sangria? Well, it tasted more of fizzy fruit water than a strong red wine.
My second visit was on a blazing hot day. Thank goodness for outside umbrellas (advertised as the only spot for this on Miguel Bombarda) and the cool indoors.
Many people were inside around 2pm. It seemed to be business related inside, friend related outside. I was just here to nurture my stomach's desire for good food. If you glance at the menu again, you'll notice you can order a simple burger or one with sauce and they come with two sides.. A sauce increased the price from €.50-€2. I ordered the Grass fed meat Burger with Porto e Serra (onion confit in port wine, topped with traditional Portuguese Serra da Estrela cheese). They did not have the roasted potatoes in olive and rosemary, so I ordered the fried potatoes (like the above, only fried I was assured) and basmati rice. I was also asked if I wanted water. I responded negatively but the cute waitress said it was hot outside, the water was free, and I shouldn't get dehydrated in this weather. Free water? Surely, a lie!
Before the burger arrived, I was teased by these delightful rolls with olive oil and balsamic (?). They use these for their bruschetta pictured above. Since I left my home without much money, I didn't chance eating these in case I was charged. Sniffle.
Darn you Bugo! Are you trying to get me addicted? You're succeeding. Crisp shelled potatoes with soft interiors, plentiful rice soaking up the meat and confit juices, half and half ketchup and mayo, and a burger topped with onions and stinky cheese. The red meat fell apart amongst sweet onions. The potatoes were covered in red and white. Mmmmm. Good food backed up by Caro Emerald playing over the speakers.
Once I was done, I was offered dessert and free coffee. Instead of accepting, I decided to pay my bill at the front register. Total cost: €7.50. The water was free, the burger less than anticipated. This place is amazing. Now, I'm curious about the rolls. Do I go back?
Rua Miguel Bombarda Nº 598
4050-379 Porto – Portugal
35 years ago, this man did not take his doctor prescribed medicine, Licor Dukerma. Suffering from indigestion, the liqueur would be the perfect treatment. It's Formula No. 2 advertises: "This liquor, prepared with the roots and leaves of the stomach, is recommended for all people who want to have a good digestion."
Well he survived his stomach issues and I purchased that same bottle May 25, 2011. It reputedly is 70 years old, but two weeks ago he claimed it was 100. It's old, it's dusty, it's mine. Other bottle labels state the following: Important Notices - The yellow liquor, formula 1, and for people not used to liquor. The green liquor, formula 2, prepared as a formula for the distillation of aromatic plants and medicinal roots, should be taken against digestions but to strengthen the digestive system. Warranty - All bottles carry in our signature label.
Licor Dukerma : Porto, Portugal : Fabrica De Licores Ferreira Duque : Syrups Liqueurs - lid
The paper around the cap is gummy and making removal hard. It's slowly coming off. The bottle is so dusty. A previous facebook comment noted it's urine like color. That's certainly true. Piece by piece. I see the lid's top and it's a dusty white due to storage. The left side of my lip is curling in a slight grimace. Please don't put me in the hospital. It's corked. I should have anticipated this. I hope it's solid enough to pull out without any floaties (that's what he said?).
Sure is a dusty bottle. I wonder how long it had been sitting in the restaurant? I also wonder how much direct sunlight it had. Tore off the cap, cork still inside. Floaties seem a reality now. I can smell it. There's must and spice. Mmmm.... wonderful combination, right? I feel like a doctor performing surgery on a favorite friend, hoping my knife won't slip and kill him. Gently now, pull it out gently. Emailing a wine friend for a new cork. It came out easily but is rotten, blackened at the bottom.
Sweet, spicy, herbal smell. Pouring enough for a good picture.
It does look like urine. Little specks are floating in my glass. Slightly sweet, spicy as it goes in, slightly coats the tongue, heat trickles down the throat. Tried breathing through my nose as I raised my glass the second attempt - fiery. I need to find a Colorado bartender (emailed Sean Kenyon and Colt and Gray for Kevin Burke) willing to experiment with this. The sweet flavor remains after a few minutes. It's as if you realized you had orange juice on your chin and you finally licked it off. It doesn't scream sweet, but you know it's there. Still slightly present 30 minutes later. The cork is gingerly back in. Still slightly dubious, I'm waiting until morning for the final verdict.
Lines are intimidating. Raised in a society that emphasizes convenience, long lines are frightening. We want things now not later. Even if we're starving or want what others desire, we're more likely to take the least resistant path. Santini, near Lisbon's center (a short walk from the Restauradores' metro stop), seems such a place. The word "gelati" is delectable, their red and white decor inviting, but the line acted as an UNO reverse card.
Coupled with this long line was my previous experiences with Portuguese inefficiency. This could be a 30 minute wait, but the ice cream looked so good. I stayed.
The line was moving well, a good sign. Another excellent sign appeared - the sight of additional fortification. Desserts, coffee, and a sign proclaiming "the best chocolate cake in the world".
There it lies. A chocolate cake, its world's bestest claim untested. If you make it to Santini, please let me know if it matches expectations. The line was moving remarkably fast and the reasons why were soon apparent. You order first and get a ticket which you'll present at the gelati counter. This was great production flow and similar to another great gelato place in Barcelona.
I could nearly savor my future ice cream. Successful customers were walking past with their colorful ice cream. I wanted to take an ice cream troll toll, but I resisted such lowbrow reflexes.
Several people (4-6) manned the gelati counter quickly taking orders and swirling them into cups and cones. Right before you get to the counter, there's a display board to the left listing all the varieties. One complaint - you can't see the ice cream before ordering. They are in silver containers and always lidded.
Meloa (honeydew) and abacaxi com hortelã(pineapple with mint). This cost €2.50. The meloa was so good and the mint subtly came through the pineapple flavor. I'm a huge fan of honeydew melon and they nailed the flavor.
Abacate (avocado) and Doce de ovo com pinhão (egg cream with pine nuts). This also cost €2.50. The avocado was nicely fatty, the doce de ovo struck a good balance. The pine nuts were few but present. I'm glad they didn't overpower.
Good to the last drop, I recommend Santini's. The line moves rather quickly, so don't be intimidated as I was two weeks ago. The decor is pleasant and inviting with its red and white colors. They have approximately 20 flavors to try. It's reasonably priced especially considering the ice cream's superb flavor and taste. And the line only took 10 minutes or less - Brava! Read the English scoop on this place here.
Enough of the food, where are the dancers? After all, I'm here for the dancing, right?
Monthly dances are held at Maus Hábitos near the Coliseu do Porto. This video is from April's dance. Portugal has a small, but mighty and growing scene. New dancers continually filter in and progress from beginner to advanced. If you're ever visiting, be sure to check out the Lindy Hop Portugal website. Their parties go from 23h to 04h, so be prepared for that later start and much later finish.
The music will be fun since you'll be in the capable hands of DJ Abeth (above) and DJ Joe (below).
The dancers are friendly, welcoming, and want to dance with you. How could you resist Monica, leaders?
Also know that if you visit Porto and have the option of choosing Super Bock and Sagres beer, choose Super Bock. Carlos knows.
Even when there's much dancing, there's always time to chat and catch up with friends or make new acquaintances. Meet Isabel. She's never blurry.
If you look like Sylar from Heroes, be prepared for special treatment. Meet Diana, Joao Lourenco, and Abeth again.
Porto also has amazing views. There's much sightseeing to do even when indoors. Notice the casted shadows of dancers.
So, come out and visit Portugal. Porto and Lisbon both have excellent swing dance scenes with great people. And there's a great event coming soon called the Atlantic Swing Festival. Enjoy the rest of the pictures.
Most pictures were taken after a long exhausting 4 hour aerial workshop. Then they danced until 4am and some even came to Leça da Palmeira for Sunday aerials.
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