Lokal - Prague, Czech Republic

My friends speak very highly of their Prague experiences, so I looked forward to spending time there. I visited Prague for 8 days in March. During my visit, I planned classes for my 16 teaching hours, wandered the city, and was introduced to Czech cuisine. Let's begin the journey.

This is Day 1 Picture 1. Immediately after dumping my luggage at an apartment, my host and I trekked to Lokal on Dlouha, a restaurant specializing in local Czech cuisine. While I viewed the menu, my friend gave me various advice for future Prague dining adventures. Advice ranged from beware the Ementhaler, restaurants near tour attractions, and menus boasting too many specialties. Look for small menus and the Ambiente restaurants.

Pictured above is the Butcher's sausage from Přeštice pig with housemade mustard and grated horseradish, and fried cheese with housemade tartar sauce. That sausage was fantastic. I would make a slice, dip it into the mustard and then the horseradish. It was the perfect combination of juicy and savory meat, mild mustard and biting horseradish. The cheese was a bold choice due to my allergens, but it was quality. I enjoyed it in small doses with dabs of tartar sauce.

I also came here a second time, hoping to try more traditional dishes. Next on my list was a neck of pork schnitzel fried in lard with potato dumplings. I keep forgetting that Czech dumplings are never what I picture. They're rather flat ovals rather than my imagined spheres. The schnitzel was pounded flat which is an apt description of its flavor. The lemon added some zest, but I found it to be an uninspiring dish. I enjoy the potato dumplings, though they were a bit mild.

Lokal offers a daily rotating menu with regular staples. Prices are quite reasonable too. If you look at the menu, I'll point out that 1 USD = approx 20 CZK. I've heard their soups are quite nice and naturally, I'd recommend the sausages. Otherwise, beware the slow service. They're great at seating you, taking your order, and delivering your food. When it comes to receiving your bill, best of luck. Bring a book or a movie. You might be there a long time.

Valencia Restaurants - back for more

Life in Valencia brings contentment. I returned the first weekend of February for more lindy hop, aerials, and food. During that time, we visited two standout locations. Curious? Let's start with Mimmo.

Mimmo is located within walking distance from my friends' apartment. As you walk inside you might notice an unusual feature, the television playing fire. My advice - choose a seat not facing the faux fire. We started with unpictured croquettes with red pepper jam. Valencian croquettes have always delighted me. Most croquettes I've eaten in Madrid were served cold and tasted bland. Valencian croquettes are warm, fragrant and bursting with flavors, namely delicious cheese and perhaps some cured meat. The red pepper jam was particularly addictive. I may have used my fingers to clean its container.

Next came with the salad with its thin cheese filled bolsa, meaning "purse". It was a litany of flavors with greens, pomegranate seeds, various nuts, dates, and more. Cut the bag open, mix everything together, and save the crispier parts for scooping up the nuts and dates.

Then we had the daily ravioli stuffed with pistachios, sheep ricotta, topped with spinach presented on slate board. The ravioli had great texture and taste. Don't admire the presentation too long. Otherwise, your friends might take your share. Do as we did and go with a group and share as many dishes as possible.

My second restaurant was for Valencian paella. When a dining companion announces he is paella taliban, you know you're in good hands. My friends and I drove to the Albufera for the paella at Mare Nostrum Germans Zorrilla. Secret to a good parking space? Even when the ocean is appearing closer, "keep driving, keep driving", there is parking the back.

Our paella taliban companion thought our appetites needed whetting, so we tucked into tellines, calamares, and mojama (pictured above) with red pepper and aubergines with hard boiled egg quarters. Mojama is salt cured tuna loin. Indescribably delicious. During this time, I was educated about paella borders, etiquette, wars, and the crispy rice. A great education and I was ready for the test.

The paella arrived filled with rice, green beans, large broad beans, rabbit, and chicken pieces. It was great, tasty, challenging (never had rabbit kidney before or rabbit leg). We divided the paella into 6 large triangles, fought to keep our borders intact, hunted crispy rice sections, and tore into the meat. I really enjoyed the vegetables, particularly the broad beans, the rice's flavor (unique to this Valencian region), and the chicken. The rabbit was particularly messy.

Well done, everyone. I've been forever spoiled. I've had paella in the states and it doesn't compare. Thanks, Valencia!

Madrid Food Gems

I lamented my Madrid food experiences in my last post. As you read, the food outlook was not entirely negative. There were other restaurants I found either through food blogs, Yelp, and pure happenstance. Here are the ones with photographic evidence.

Let me introduce you to Moz Heart in the Mercado de San Miguel. They have numerous rolls and toasts featuring mozzarella and burrata. Rolls were 1/8" thick mozzarella wrapped around various ingredients like salty cured meats. The toasts were topped with creamy burrata topped with olive oil and some black pepper. I bought the salmon topped burrata and the jamon/mozzarella/arugula roll for €3.50 each. They seemed expensive to a friend, but such quality mozzarella and burrata is hard to get in Colorado (exceptions at Osteria Marco and the Denver Truffle). 

I first tried the salmon, but it proved very sweet. That's not quite right. It was rich to the point of sweetness, so I moved to the mozzarella roll. I tore the cheese and noted its texture, density, and elasticity. It was a delicious flavor combination.

One day's obsession was ice cream. I found several food blogs listing Madrid's best ice cream places. I made a specific Google Map for this hunt. Some places no longer exist and others, well, I couldn't find them. My favorite ice cream, pictured above, was pure happenstance.


I discovered Alboraya when looking for another ice cream place. They had just opened that morning and I walked in to peer at their selections. Horchata! Sold. And then Turron. Ice cream selected for 2.70. The Horchata featured chufa's distinct flavor quite well. The Turron had the ground almond taste that I'm accustomed to. I was pleased with both flavors, the density, and their lasting impression on my palate. Superb flavors local to Spain! To my poor Denverites drinking Mexican Horchata or eating Sweet Action's mexican horchata flavored ice cream, there's no comparison. Chufa trumps all.

My first weekend back in Madrid, I had nothing to do. I had eaten so well in New York City, Asheville, and Rochester. I was craving cocktails and great food, so I went to Yelp and found Le Cabrera. I literally ran out the door once I read the reviews. As I perused the menu while snacking on complimentary herb and paprika dusted chips, I came upon the Claymore, a cocktail featuring Pisco, Islay Scotch, Green Chartreuse, and creole bitters. Herbal frothiness topped my chilled silver glass. Apparently, it did contain egg white. Once I got through the foam, I was greeted with the earthy bitterness and smokiness from the Scotch. Delicious.

Let me introduce you to the other reason why I came here. One reviewer's ecstatic post about their edible Bloody Mary. It was an excellent edible rendition of a Bloody Mary. Crisp celery, black pepper dust, slightly bitter sauce, yummy sliceable tomatoes. Great recommendation.

DF Bar Tortería Mexicana was another pleasant surprise. I was en route from Anton Martin to Puerta del Sol after a private lesson. I was hungry and on the prowl for something cheap and not kebab. This place was packed with locals and I remembered tortas as being a delicious messy Mexican sandwich. Ever read Denver on a Spit? You should.

I selected what sounded the most authentic to this non-Spanish speaker, the Cuauhtemoc features nopal y huevo. I never had cactus until visiting Madrid and the taste was growing on me. Thanks, Taqueria mi Ciudad. As I waited, they started me with jalapeno and cilantro chips. Crunching away, I watched my sandwich being grilled beans, avocado, tomato, and cheese filling the remainder. Delicious. I wish I could have gone back there. Interesting note: Several of the Taqueria mi Ciudad guys wear DF shirts.

Fat Boy Burrito was my best find. Yep, I discovered a brand new restaurant in Madrid! I found Fat Boy when wondering between Chueca and Tribunal seeking vintage shops. I took a photo of their outside and hunted for information online. I finally found information via their Facebook and discovered they opened two days before I visited.

They have a basic menu featuring 5 different styles of a burrito, three tacos, or a bowl (the 3 bases). You get to choose your base and your meat (pollo a la brasa, carnitas, pollo pibil, ternera Fat Boy). Prices range from $4.50 to $5.20. They have a second menu featuring salsa, chips with guacamole, a chocolate tart, and bebidas including Jarritos.

I chose the moderno burrito with the ignacios (chips with guacamole). I first tasted apple when tasting this burrito. I'm not sure why since I expected mango or some habanero. Eventually, I got into the delicious pollo pibil with its orange char and earthy taste, onyx black beans, and padron fritos. The chips were great also especially paired with the foamy guacamole.

Other notes: the staff wear cool buffalo plaid shirts, have such precision when piecing the burrito together, great interior colors, friendly service (+ English), great chilled out music with stellar beats. Go here.

That wraps up Madrid. There were a few other restaurants I discovered, but I didn't have my camera with me. My Madrid food advice: find a Madrid foodie whether it's a friend or a local's blog. There are many restaurants that serve typical Spanish cuisine, but much of this is underwhelming. This is why you need someone passionate about food.

Taqueria mi Ciudad - Madrid, Spain

This dog represents my food life in Madrid. Look at those mournful eyes, the long face, the pleading countenance. He wants something. He needs something. Good food!

It has been nearly 4 months since I wrote about my food adventures. I was based in Madrid, Spain until February 6, but found that Madrid rarely excited my tastebuds. During my first weekend there, I went to two excellent restaurants near the Opera Metro Station thanks to three individuals passionate about food. One promised me a food list and sent that to my teaching partner relatively quickly. Big mistake! She took weeks to give it to me. By then I was leaving shortly for a three week US vacation. Coupled with this delay, being introduced to several bad Madrid restaurants, not knowing enough passionate foodies, and teaching during the weekday evenings, I grew quite unmotivated.

Then I discovered Taqueria Mi Ciudad near Opera (currently, their website is down, so these links go to Yelp). They have two locations. One is a small location on Calle de las Fuentas. They have room for about 10 people. They have another location on the parallel street,  Calle Hileras that can seat 40-50+ people. This larger location also serves tacos al pastor, alhambre tacos and another menu item that the small location doesn't.

Personally, I prefer the smaller location. It's typically one guy running the show. Each taco is between €1.50-2.50. They're served in wonderfully soft corn tortillas and accompanied with two salsas, a mild and chipotle, and spicy onions. I started with the Pipian Rojo and Chicharron en Salsa Verde. The juicy pork marinating in salsa verde, the taste of pumpkin seeds among the shredded chicken. 2.5 hours later, I was back for more. Couldn't stay away, so I ordered the delicious Pollo al Mole Poblano and Taco Placero with its crispy pork rind and guacamole. I craved shredded marinated meat more than I realize.

Not only is this a great taco place, but they have great handmade guacamole. Peer over the counter and you'll see them making it. Then there are the black beans. Wow! They taste like cake, delicious, black bean cake. Both guacamole and black beans come with crunchy corn chips. My suggestion: sprinkle salt (not a little, not a lot, but somewhere in between. The salt is also addictive.) on the black beans. Delicious! Amplifies their already kickass flavor. Have I mentioned the tamales yet? Order those. Go there and do it. Now.

Did you say you have a craving for tacos al pastor? You desire spitted meat sliced and placed inside a corn tortilla along with pineapple? Then you must go to the larger location where they have two other taco dishes featuring their al pastor meat. The only negative to some of their dishes.... too much cheese at times. That's just me. Due to allergies and the fact I want to enjoy standout meat, I like only a little cheese. However, a margarita or a beer can take the cheesy edge off. Both locations offer a variety of beer and tequila based drinks.

If you're in Madrid and hanker for tacos, come to Taqueria mi Ciudad. Two days before I left Madrid, I went here three times. I would return to Madrid just for these tacos. They're full of flavor and cheap. Service is fast and efficient. And it's in the city center. Perfecto!

Bob Bob Ricard - London, UK

Back in May, I discovered that a friend's housemate was an avid foodie. I was scouring London restaurant sources and emailed her asking if she's dined at Bob Bob Ricard. She replied "No! Zomg! I want to go!". It took 6 months and 3 London visits to make this happen.

This photo summarizes what I knew about Bob Bob Ricard. They pride themselves on their champagne price points, blatantly bragging price differences on their wine and champagne menu. We quickly pressed the button and instantly the waiter was there. Actually, my friends were so eager they didn't realize he was already present. Cheers to prompt, friendly service.

Here was our exquisite bottle, the Pol Roger 2000, featuring an unbeatable price point. Whetting our taste buds, we fell upon the menu, arguing over mains and starters. We were in a sharing mood and did not want duplicate orders.

This was the Truffled Potato and Porcini Vareniki. It pleasantly surprised my friend, not being what she expected. Vareniki is a type of Ukrainian Filled Dumpling. It was thickly filled with potato, the woody mushroom flavor present, truffle lightly landing last. 

Beetroot is a current obsession, so I ordered the Smokey Borsch with Beetroot, Cucumber, Boiled Quail Egg, and Smoked Orkney Beef | Cooked With Smokey Bacon. The bowl came with a delicately chopped selection of those listed ingredients resting at the bottom. The server poured the thin blood red soup from a tureen. It was marvelously smokey, the bacon flavor running to the back of my throat.

Here we have the Jerusalem Artichoke Dip with Caramelized Walnuts and Brioche Croutons. The soup was rich and medium thick. The nuts added a crunchy sweetness.

Visually feast on the Wafer Thin Beetroot and Goat's Cheese Salad with Broadbeans and Mint.

I knew that ordering a second starter was probably overkill, but I couldn't resist these Russian dishes. From the top right proceeding clockwise, we have Russian Salad & Truffle (pungent), Russian Herring (salty with thick jelly-like texture), Foie Gras Parfait & Truffle (slightly rich, foie miniscule grainy texture with crunch finish), and Jellied Ox Tongue (beefy taste, thin gelatinous layer with horseradish finish). I particular enjoyed the thin truffle slices. They were sublime contrasted with my previous overdone truffle experiences.

Here is the Pièce de Résistance, the Beef Wellington (for two) featuring 28 Day Aged Aberdeenshire Scotch Beef served with Béarnaise sauce. I didn't know what Beef Wellington was until my friend explained it to me. I was here to celebrate friends and food, so it was perfect. The smoke rising from its gorgeous pastry shell. The light sheen intimating what lay beneath.

Our server sliced it into perfect proportions. Pink beef wrapped with porcini, encased in a pastry shell. With my knife in my right, fork in my left, I dove in and savored every morsel. And then I had more. 

The Fillet Medallions Rossini, 28 Day Aged Scotch Beef. It is made with Seared Foie Gras and a Foie Gras Crouton served with Truffle Gravy. Decadent, rich with foie, it was love.

Meet the Old Bay Crispy Quail. It was a Two Spiced, Deboned Whole Quail served with Beetroot, Apple and Sultana Coleslaw. Fortunately, it came with a lemon scented dipping bowl. It was quite the hands on experience.

Ready for dessert? A friend couldn't decide between the souffle or the Eton Mess. This is the Eton Mess en Perle made with Lime Meringue, Berries, Strawberry Sorbet, Raspberry Marshmellows and Cream. This was an extraordinary dessert. Layers of flavor, slightly herbaceous, a hidden treat.

No self-respecting British restaurant could not have a cheese board. This was too much for one, so we helped her finish.

Why pick one when you can have three? Here is the Trio of Creme Brulees - Valrhona Chocolate, Passionfruit, Earl Grey Tea. Each had great flavors and made a unique statement.

My dessert was the Pineapple & Lemongrass Pannacotta served with Malibu Ice Cream. The pannacotta was so astounding I promptly forced it upon everyone to try. They did not complain. Simply amazing. 

Amongst the silver Christmas trees, lightly pink decor, and friendly waitstaff, we had a wonderful time. Waistbands stretched, we slowly exited.

Food Highlights and More - Valencia, Spain

Valencia might be my favorite Spanish city so far. I don't say those words lightly. I have visited Zaragoza once, Barcelona twice, and Madrid thrice. In Zaragoza, I saw my host's home, a park, a heavy metal bar, and a classroom. In Barcelona, I have a favorite bar, restaurant, ice cream place, and enjoy the architecture. Though I've been to Madrid the most, I feel I barely know the city. But Valencia, Valencia I know.

This is what happens when I stay with two Valencians very enthusiastic and proud of their city. I get to wander the city, admire the fountains and squares, marvel at the ancient buildings and towers, sample local cuisine, and imbibe the drinks.

 The first notable drink is orxata made from the pictured tubers of the xufa plant. It was fascinating to hear that orxata's originates from Valencia. It was even more fascinating (and difficult) trying to pry apart these shelled tubers to enjoy the nutty tasting meal inside.

My friends took me to Sequer Lo Branch, where xufa is processed and orxata made. It's traditional to drink the orxata with fartons. Above you see the best way to enjoy orxata.

Another traditional Valencian specialty are the Valencian mussels, or clochinas. You must go to La Pilareta where clochinas is their specialty. Trust me, you'll want lots of bread to soak up the slightly spicy broth immersing the mussels.

If you're not too full or feel like something cool to assuage the spicy clochinas broth, I recommend nearby Amorino. They specialize in artfully arranged, wonderfully dense, rich gelato. Order three flavors for an edible "flower".

Another traditional dish is fideua. Pictured above is a non-traditional version featuring duck. I thank Gin Tapas for a great meal. I also thank my friend's sister for dating a Valencian restaurant magnate. While dining beneath the warm Valencian sun, we also enjoyed several different croquetas and tuna salad.

This dish headlined an amazing home cooked dinner. If you visit Valencia, find this dish in a restaurant or adopt someone's mom. It is arroz al horno with pork. It was legen-.... Wait for it ..-dary!

I want to mention Le Marquis for their eye catching photos decorating their startling white interior, but also their Menu of the Day. It is €14 for three courses. The highlight was this crepe with morcilla (blood sausage), foie, red fruits, and a small salad with vinaigrette drizzle.

When most people think of Spanish food, they think tapas, small plates, meat. There is more to Spain as you witnessed above. However, I want to mention Valencian tapas because they do them quite well. La Croqueteria, for example, stays open late and specializes in croquettes. They do serve other tasty dishes, so admire the crispy ham, sliced potatoes, fried egg, and be jealous you weren't there.

My last night out was fantastic. Friends were craving Negresco's signature cocktail and they knew I enjoyed cocktails and whisky. This venue advertises a large whisky, gin, and cocktail selection. Their menus were large, overwhelming with choices, but they had excellent descriptions. We drank a lot, danced, were entertained by the Spanish Elvis (a drunk patron whose nearby karaoke bar was closed), and played with a French bulldog mix. Cute, right?

When you visit Valencia, it will cure any ennui. This cat used to be sad and plaintive, but then it visited Valencia and discovered the excitement it offered.

Whether it's wire brushes, cocktails, traditional venue, architecture, exciting restaurants, Valencia has a lot to offer. I hope you enjoy it as much as I did.