Devil's Kitchen - Barcelona, Spain

 

You know what's an unusual sight? Entering a pub where everyone's staring intensely at the futbol game on television. I know I'm in a major futbol country, but the Spanish are much louder. I look closer. Lighter complexions, yellow jerseys, aha! Dortmund versus Arsenal, a German runs this establishment, therefore German futbol. Mystery solved.

Not knowing whether to wade through the crowd and block a view, I waited near the back. Finally, someone came to take my order. Devil's Kitchen has a select menu featuring burgers and German sausages, fries, wings, and beer. For beer, you have cheap or good. I chose good and asked for something dark. I was forewarned it was the most expensive, but I accepted. It was light, like most German beers I've tried, but had some light spicy notes.

For food, I ordered the well regarded Devil Burger and Fries. The waiter asked me where I was from. I respond with "Colorado". Then he asks confirming "so, you don't want mayo, right?" Correct. They will serve you mayo for an extra €.30 and perhaps mild scorn if you're sporting anything but a Spanish accent.

I received the beer and discovered the server's sister lives in Boulder, Colorado. He's visited numerous times for skiing and loves our scenery. Go Colorado!

I received my burger, but screwed something up in the progress. They give you white waxy paper for eating and the chef reached with his metal spatula on which the hamburger lay. I inadvertently touched the spatula trying to help. My future advice- just move the wax paper so it's easier. The only available seat was tucked in the far back corner, a longer reach for him.

The burger was great. The meat was flavorful, the bun hearty, some juices ran. The fries were a welcome sight also, nearly covered completely in paprika. You should see all the sauces I had. When in a German restaurant, go with the Curry Sauce. Delicious, especially when applied on my burger too.

After the game, people cleared out relatively rapidly. I took my ticket up to the register and paid. They have a different system when the game is on. Assuming you want to watch every minute, they'll hand you your ticket and you'll pay afterwards. Good futbol loving system.

Devil's Kitchen
Carrer de la Lleialtat, 4
El Raval
08001 Barcelona

Las Sorrentinas - Barcelona, Spain

Ever cut into ravioli and it wilts beneath your fork's pressure? This ravioli doesn't. Las Sorrentinas' ravioli is packed; no, stuffed with ingredients. Cutting into their ravioli is like revealing the center of a dense cake.

I passed this place last night after midnight yesterday. Most of this area was closed or closing, but I made note of their location. I visited this restaurant the next day around mid-afternoon and it was moderately busy. Seating is mostly shared around 3 tables and some counter seating. A WC visit gives you a fine view of their kitchen.

Their menu is posted outside, but the prices are incorrect. The ravioli is actually €1 more. Fortunately, their menus inside are all updated. Barcelona locals might be more familiar with them under their original name, Con Pasta y a lo Loco.

I ordered the beetroot ravioli with poached pears in sugar, goat cheese, and ricotta topped with green pesto and ricotta. Their menu advertises picking a pasta, a sauce and a topping. Since the prices build on each other, you probably don't have to get all 3.

Wow! Was that ravioli delicious! First, it was smothered in green pesto lending a small grainy earthiness to balance my ravioli's slight inherent sweetness. And then ricotta balanced everything else with its refreshing intact creaminess.

I strongly recommend this spot. It is slow, but they advertise this. If you're traveling by yourself and don't get alone with your thoughts, bring a book, practice your Spanish with someone at your table, or order a salad or soup to keep you busy.

Las Sorentinas
Pl. Sant Pere, 5
08003 Barcelona
Spain
+34 930 102 114

Ten's Tapas Restaurant - Barcelona, Spain

I count myself fortunate I stumbled onto Ten's Tapas Restaurant earlier tonight. Chef Jordi Cruz has an outstanding pedigree with his 4 Michelin stars. Now let's forget I know this less this shades my review.

Ten's menu caught my eye. It hung off the awning leaning into the pedestrian path's center. It highlighted the 15 tapas menu items in 3 languages including English. I quickly scanned looking for something interesting and eye fell upon several items, but would my friends want to try this restaurant? They did.

After checking with management, we sat ourselves outside. As our server was receiving our drink orders, he sung Chef Jordi's praises. For myself, I ordered the foie gras dish with sichuan pepper ice cream (intriguing) and the slow cooked egg dish. I also shared some bread, fried potatoes, and black rice (all not photographed).

Onto the dishes. First, we have the foie gras with figs, sweet and sour stir fried bread with sichuan pepper ice cream. Overall, this dish was quite sweet. The crunchy topping (perhaps the stir fried bread?) alleviated some of the sweetness. I was hoping the sichuan pepper ice cream might lend slight heat in balance, but even that was blatantly sweet with little peppery bite. What sat between each foie gras piece was lost in the shuffle.

The second presented dish was the slow cooked egg with Iberian ham and sobrassada paprika sausage, permantier potatoes, mature gouda and rocket salad  It sounded really good and again, presented well. With those components, this is a lustworthy dish. However, I was told that to properly eat it, one must swirl it around thoroughly and apply it atop the tomato toast. My gorgeous dish became a seething eggy mass. It tasted nice, but the egg overwhelmed everything else. The iberian ham, sobrassada paprika sausage, mature gouda - all lost.

Where does this leave Ten's? Merely satisfactory. I appreciate Chef Jordi Cruz's presentation skills and willingness to pair disparate items. However, I am underwhelmed when a dish doesn't elevate any one flavor or masks too many pieces. 

Also, the service was confusing at times. Our waiter was quite thorough, but sometimes too quick with his suggestions. Customer(s) and waiter must work harder to overcome both  a challenging menu and language difficulties (he spoke acceptable English, though quick and Catalan tinted).


Ten's
Carrer Rec, 79
08003 Barcelona

Valencia Restaurants - back for more

Life in Valencia brings contentment. I returned the first weekend of February for more lindy hop, aerials, and food. During that time, we visited two standout locations. Curious? Let's start with Mimmo.

Mimmo is located within walking distance from my friends' apartment. As you walk inside you might notice an unusual feature, the television playing fire. My advice - choose a seat not facing the faux fire. We started with unpictured croquettes with red pepper jam. Valencian croquettes have always delighted me. Most croquettes I've eaten in Madrid were served cold and tasted bland. Valencian croquettes are warm, fragrant and bursting with flavors, namely delicious cheese and perhaps some cured meat. The red pepper jam was particularly addictive. I may have used my fingers to clean its container.

Next came with the salad with its thin cheese filled bolsa, meaning "purse". It was a litany of flavors with greens, pomegranate seeds, various nuts, dates, and more. Cut the bag open, mix everything together, and save the crispier parts for scooping up the nuts and dates.

Then we had the daily ravioli stuffed with pistachios, sheep ricotta, topped with spinach presented on slate board. The ravioli had great texture and taste. Don't admire the presentation too long. Otherwise, your friends might take your share. Do as we did and go with a group and share as many dishes as possible.

My second restaurant was for Valencian paella. When a dining companion announces he is paella taliban, you know you're in good hands. My friends and I drove to the Albufera for the paella at Mare Nostrum Germans Zorrilla. Secret to a good parking space? Even when the ocean is appearing closer, "keep driving, keep driving", there is parking the back.

Our paella taliban companion thought our appetites needed whetting, so we tucked into tellines, calamares, and mojama (pictured above) with red pepper and aubergines with hard boiled egg quarters. Mojama is salt cured tuna loin. Indescribably delicious. During this time, I was educated about paella borders, etiquette, wars, and the crispy rice. A great education and I was ready for the test.

The paella arrived filled with rice, green beans, large broad beans, rabbit, and chicken pieces. It was great, tasty, challenging (never had rabbit kidney before or rabbit leg). We divided the paella into 6 large triangles, fought to keep our borders intact, hunted crispy rice sections, and tore into the meat. I really enjoyed the vegetables, particularly the broad beans, the rice's flavor (unique to this Valencian region), and the chicken. The rabbit was particularly messy.

Well done, everyone. I've been forever spoiled. I've had paella in the states and it doesn't compare. Thanks, Valencia!

Madrid Food Gems

I lamented my Madrid food experiences in my last post. As you read, the food outlook was not entirely negative. There were other restaurants I found either through food blogs, Yelp, and pure happenstance. Here are the ones with photographic evidence.

Let me introduce you to Moz Heart in the Mercado de San Miguel. They have numerous rolls and toasts featuring mozzarella and burrata. Rolls were 1/8" thick mozzarella wrapped around various ingredients like salty cured meats. The toasts were topped with creamy burrata topped with olive oil and some black pepper. I bought the salmon topped burrata and the jamon/mozzarella/arugula roll for €3.50 each. They seemed expensive to a friend, but such quality mozzarella and burrata is hard to get in Colorado (exceptions at Osteria Marco and the Denver Truffle). 

I first tried the salmon, but it proved very sweet. That's not quite right. It was rich to the point of sweetness, so I moved to the mozzarella roll. I tore the cheese and noted its texture, density, and elasticity. It was a delicious flavor combination.

One day's obsession was ice cream. I found several food blogs listing Madrid's best ice cream places. I made a specific Google Map for this hunt. Some places no longer exist and others, well, I couldn't find them. My favorite ice cream, pictured above, was pure happenstance.


I discovered Alboraya when looking for another ice cream place. They had just opened that morning and I walked in to peer at their selections. Horchata! Sold. And then Turron. Ice cream selected for 2.70. The Horchata featured chufa's distinct flavor quite well. The Turron had the ground almond taste that I'm accustomed to. I was pleased with both flavors, the density, and their lasting impression on my palate. Superb flavors local to Spain! To my poor Denverites drinking Mexican Horchata or eating Sweet Action's mexican horchata flavored ice cream, there's no comparison. Chufa trumps all.

My first weekend back in Madrid, I had nothing to do. I had eaten so well in New York City, Asheville, and Rochester. I was craving cocktails and great food, so I went to Yelp and found Le Cabrera. I literally ran out the door once I read the reviews. As I perused the menu while snacking on complimentary herb and paprika dusted chips, I came upon the Claymore, a cocktail featuring Pisco, Islay Scotch, Green Chartreuse, and creole bitters. Herbal frothiness topped my chilled silver glass. Apparently, it did contain egg white. Once I got through the foam, I was greeted with the earthy bitterness and smokiness from the Scotch. Delicious.

Let me introduce you to the other reason why I came here. One reviewer's ecstatic post about their edible Bloody Mary. It was an excellent edible rendition of a Bloody Mary. Crisp celery, black pepper dust, slightly bitter sauce, yummy sliceable tomatoes. Great recommendation.

DF Bar Tortería Mexicana was another pleasant surprise. I was en route from Anton Martin to Puerta del Sol after a private lesson. I was hungry and on the prowl for something cheap and not kebab. This place was packed with locals and I remembered tortas as being a delicious messy Mexican sandwich. Ever read Denver on a Spit? You should.

I selected what sounded the most authentic to this non-Spanish speaker, the Cuauhtemoc features nopal y huevo. I never had cactus until visiting Madrid and the taste was growing on me. Thanks, Taqueria mi Ciudad. As I waited, they started me with jalapeno and cilantro chips. Crunching away, I watched my sandwich being grilled beans, avocado, tomato, and cheese filling the remainder. Delicious. I wish I could have gone back there. Interesting note: Several of the Taqueria mi Ciudad guys wear DF shirts.

Fat Boy Burrito was my best find. Yep, I discovered a brand new restaurant in Madrid! I found Fat Boy when wondering between Chueca and Tribunal seeking vintage shops. I took a photo of their outside and hunted for information online. I finally found information via their Facebook and discovered they opened two days before I visited.

They have a basic menu featuring 5 different styles of a burrito, three tacos, or a bowl (the 3 bases). You get to choose your base and your meat (pollo a la brasa, carnitas, pollo pibil, ternera Fat Boy). Prices range from $4.50 to $5.20. They have a second menu featuring salsa, chips with guacamole, a chocolate tart, and bebidas including Jarritos.

I chose the moderno burrito with the ignacios (chips with guacamole). I first tasted apple when tasting this burrito. I'm not sure why since I expected mango or some habanero. Eventually, I got into the delicious pollo pibil with its orange char and earthy taste, onyx black beans, and padron fritos. The chips were great also especially paired with the foamy guacamole.

Other notes: the staff wear cool buffalo plaid shirts, have such precision when piecing the burrito together, great interior colors, friendly service (+ English), great chilled out music with stellar beats. Go here.

That wraps up Madrid. There were a few other restaurants I discovered, but I didn't have my camera with me. My Madrid food advice: find a Madrid foodie whether it's a friend or a local's blog. There are many restaurants that serve typical Spanish cuisine, but much of this is underwhelming. This is why you need someone passionate about food.

Taqueria mi Ciudad - Madrid, Spain

This dog represents my food life in Madrid. Look at those mournful eyes, the long face, the pleading countenance. He wants something. He needs something. Good food!

It has been nearly 4 months since I wrote about my food adventures. I was based in Madrid, Spain until February 6, but found that Madrid rarely excited my tastebuds. During my first weekend there, I went to two excellent restaurants near the Opera Metro Station thanks to three individuals passionate about food. One promised me a food list and sent that to my teaching partner relatively quickly. Big mistake! She took weeks to give it to me. By then I was leaving shortly for a three week US vacation. Coupled with this delay, being introduced to several bad Madrid restaurants, not knowing enough passionate foodies, and teaching during the weekday evenings, I grew quite unmotivated.

Then I discovered Taqueria Mi Ciudad near Opera (currently, their website is down, so these links go to Yelp). They have two locations. One is a small location on Calle de las Fuentas. They have room for about 10 people. They have another location on the parallel street,  Calle Hileras that can seat 40-50+ people. This larger location also serves tacos al pastor, alhambre tacos and another menu item that the small location doesn't.

Personally, I prefer the smaller location. It's typically one guy running the show. Each taco is between €1.50-2.50. They're served in wonderfully soft corn tortillas and accompanied with two salsas, a mild and chipotle, and spicy onions. I started with the Pipian Rojo and Chicharron en Salsa Verde. The juicy pork marinating in salsa verde, the taste of pumpkin seeds among the shredded chicken. 2.5 hours later, I was back for more. Couldn't stay away, so I ordered the delicious Pollo al Mole Poblano and Taco Placero with its crispy pork rind and guacamole. I craved shredded marinated meat more than I realize.

Not only is this a great taco place, but they have great handmade guacamole. Peer over the counter and you'll see them making it. Then there are the black beans. Wow! They taste like cake, delicious, black bean cake. Both guacamole and black beans come with crunchy corn chips. My suggestion: sprinkle salt (not a little, not a lot, but somewhere in between. The salt is also addictive.) on the black beans. Delicious! Amplifies their already kickass flavor. Have I mentioned the tamales yet? Order those. Go there and do it. Now.

Did you say you have a craving for tacos al pastor? You desire spitted meat sliced and placed inside a corn tortilla along with pineapple? Then you must go to the larger location where they have two other taco dishes featuring their al pastor meat. The only negative to some of their dishes.... too much cheese at times. That's just me. Due to allergies and the fact I want to enjoy standout meat, I like only a little cheese. However, a margarita or a beer can take the cheesy edge off. Both locations offer a variety of beer and tequila based drinks.

If you're in Madrid and hanker for tacos, come to Taqueria mi Ciudad. Two days before I left Madrid, I went here three times. I would return to Madrid just for these tacos. They're full of flavor and cheap. Service is fast and efficient. And it's in the city center. Perfecto!

Food Highlights and More - Valencia, Spain

Valencia might be my favorite Spanish city so far. I don't say those words lightly. I have visited Zaragoza once, Barcelona twice, and Madrid thrice. In Zaragoza, I saw my host's home, a park, a heavy metal bar, and a classroom. In Barcelona, I have a favorite bar, restaurant, ice cream place, and enjoy the architecture. Though I've been to Madrid the most, I feel I barely know the city. But Valencia, Valencia I know.

This is what happens when I stay with two Valencians very enthusiastic and proud of their city. I get to wander the city, admire the fountains and squares, marvel at the ancient buildings and towers, sample local cuisine, and imbibe the drinks.

 The first notable drink is orxata made from the pictured tubers of the xufa plant. It was fascinating to hear that orxata's originates from Valencia. It was even more fascinating (and difficult) trying to pry apart these shelled tubers to enjoy the nutty tasting meal inside.

My friends took me to Sequer Lo Branch, where xufa is processed and orxata made. It's traditional to drink the orxata with fartons. Above you see the best way to enjoy orxata.

Another traditional Valencian specialty are the Valencian mussels, or clochinas. You must go to La Pilareta where clochinas is their specialty. Trust me, you'll want lots of bread to soak up the slightly spicy broth immersing the mussels.

If you're not too full or feel like something cool to assuage the spicy clochinas broth, I recommend nearby Amorino. They specialize in artfully arranged, wonderfully dense, rich gelato. Order three flavors for an edible "flower".

Another traditional dish is fideua. Pictured above is a non-traditional version featuring duck. I thank Gin Tapas for a great meal. I also thank my friend's sister for dating a Valencian restaurant magnate. While dining beneath the warm Valencian sun, we also enjoyed several different croquetas and tuna salad.

This dish headlined an amazing home cooked dinner. If you visit Valencia, find this dish in a restaurant or adopt someone's mom. It is arroz al horno with pork. It was legen-.... Wait for it ..-dary!

I want to mention Le Marquis for their eye catching photos decorating their startling white interior, but also their Menu of the Day. It is €14 for three courses. The highlight was this crepe with morcilla (blood sausage), foie, red fruits, and a small salad with vinaigrette drizzle.

When most people think of Spanish food, they think tapas, small plates, meat. There is more to Spain as you witnessed above. However, I want to mention Valencian tapas because they do them quite well. La Croqueteria, for example, stays open late and specializes in croquettes. They do serve other tasty dishes, so admire the crispy ham, sliced potatoes, fried egg, and be jealous you weren't there.

My last night out was fantastic. Friends were craving Negresco's signature cocktail and they knew I enjoyed cocktails and whisky. This venue advertises a large whisky, gin, and cocktail selection. Their menus were large, overwhelming with choices, but they had excellent descriptions. We drank a lot, danced, were entertained by the Spanish Elvis (a drunk patron whose nearby karaoke bar was closed), and played with a French bulldog mix. Cute, right?

When you visit Valencia, it will cure any ennui. This cat used to be sad and plaintive, but then it visited Valencia and discovered the excitement it offered.

Whether it's wire brushes, cocktails, traditional venue, architecture, exciting restaurants, Valencia has a lot to offer. I hope you enjoy it as much as I did.